Lawns: How to Reseed

Create a healthy lawn by starting over

Let's get this straight right from the get-go: A healthy lawn doesn't get taken over by weeds. So if it looks like you're raising weeds instead of grass, that's a sign of a more serious problem. And that may mean killing off the grass and starting over. It's a big project that'll take several weekends and may cost you up to 25¢ per sq. ft. for equipment rentals, soil conditioners and seed. If you're willing to spend more, you can lay sod instead of planting seed, but don't skip the soil testing and remediation steps.

Are you ready for a fresh start? Just follow our guide and you'll be the happiest gnomeowner on your block.

Step 1: Get a soil analysis

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Collect samples for a soil test

Plunge your spade about 6 in. deep and pull out a plug of soil. Then slice off a section of the plug (top to bottom). Remove the grass and rocks and mix all the samples together.

Don't even think about replanting until you get the results of a soil analysis (cost is usually less than $20). Contact a local extension service or search the Internet for a soil-testing lab near you. Select three different locations around your lawn and collect samples. Mix them together and scoop into a container. Note on the lab form that you'll be planting new grass and whether you bag the clippings when you mow or return them to the lawn. In a couple of weeks, you'll get a report with recommendations about which fertilizers or soil treatments to add.

Step 2: Kill everything

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Photo 1: Kill the grass with plastic

Lay the poly film over the lawn and secure it with rocks or stakes.

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Photo 2: ...Or kill it with herbicide

Cover nearby plants with a tarp. Choose a calm day and hold the spray head close to the grass to prevent overspray.

You can kill the grass with chemicals like Roundup or Killzall. But if you hate the idea of using chemicals and have a large area, rent a sod cutter to remove the lawn surface. Or kill the grass by blocking out its sunlight with black poly film (4-mil or thicker; about $100 for a 28-ft. x 100-ft. roll). Remove the poly when the grass is dry and brown (two to three weeks or longer, depending on the weather).

Step 3: Remove the dead stuff

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Rake off the dead grass

Rip up all the dead grass and weeds with a rigid tine rake and lots of muscle.

Now comes the upper body workout: Rake up the dead grass and weeds before you amend the soil. Yup, it's got to be done.

Step 4: Improve the soil

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Till in the soil conditioners

Spread the conditioners across the entire lawn. Then till them into the soil to a depth of about 5 in.

Don't think you can fix bad soil just by adding a few inches of black soil on top of the old. Instead, rent a tiller (about $45 per day) to till in the soil conditioners recommended by the soil analysis.

“Adding good-quality black topsoil over bad soil is like putting chocolate frosting on a stale cake—it doesn't fix the underlying problem.”
Bob Mugaas, Turf Expert

Step 5: Smooth the soil

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Rake the soil

Level and smooth the soil with a broom rake. Then drag the rake (tines up) to create “furrows.”

Grass seed needs smooth and level ground to get the best germination. And it needs good seed-to-soil contact. So first remove all rocks and debris, then smooth the soil with a rake.

Step 6: Add a starter fertilizer

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Jump-start the seed

Spread lawn starter fertilizer into the furrows with a spreader. Don't overdo it.

A starter fertilizer gives grass seed the nutrients it needs to germinate and grow quickly. Consult with a local nursery to find the best starter fertilizer for the seed you select. Follow the instructions on the bag for the proper spread rate for a new lawn and apply the fertilizer.

Step 7: Pick seed to match your site

Consult with the grass expert at a garden center to select a seed that matches your site conditions, lawn care preferences and budget. Ask about the newer low-maintenance and drought-resistant varieties. Purchase grass seed by the bag or in bulk, by the pound. But buy just what you need. Don't apply the leftover seed—extra seed actually reduces the germination rate.

Step 8: Prepare the seed

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Mix the seed

Pour the seed and fertilizer into a plastic bucket and mix it thoroughly.

To avoid applying too much seed, mix the seed (4:1 ratio) with a fertilizer/ bulking agent (Milorganite is one brand; about $15 for a 36-lb. bag).

Step 9: Spread the seed

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Photo 1: Cover the seed

Turn the broom rake upside down and drag it side-to-side over the furrows until only 10 to 15 percent of the seed remains uncovered.

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Photo 2: Compact the soil

Fill a sod roller halfway with water and roll the seed to pack the soil and seed mixture.

Load the seed into a spreader and apply it. Make sure it doesn't fly into nearby gardens. Rake to cover the furrows as shown. Then compact the soil with a sod roller (rent one for about $20 per day) to get good seed-to-soil contact.

Note: To learn how to use a spreader fertilizer and reseed your lawn, search for “fertilizer.”