Regularly pruning bushes and shrubs can make the difference between a ragged, scraggly garden and an attractive, lush showplace. These tips will guide you through the basics.
By the DIY experts of The Family Handyman Magazine:March 2009
Some arborists call these the 4 Ds. Start with the dead and damaged branches, because they make the plant look bad, and encourage rot and disease. Also cut out wilted, dried or diseased branches as soon as you spot them, to remove the disease before it spreads. “Deranged” includes a broad range of branches that cross (the rubbing wears away the bark), loop down to the ground or simply look out of character with the bush (stick out at an odd angle or grow alongside the trunk). This pruning also thins out the bush, opening its interior to more light and air, which encourages fuller, healthier growth.
Cut the branch tip just beyond a bud.
Next year growth will be channeled into the side branches, making a fuller appearance.
This “heading off” technique channels more growth energy to smaller side branches, which will then fill in vacant areas. Make this cut at a side branch or 1/4 in. beyond a bud. Be selective and watch the results from the previous year to help gauge future growth. It works best on bushes and trees that grow mostly from one or a few stalks, as opposed to bushes that continually send up new shoots (suckers), like lilacs and forsythia.
It's tempting to grab the hedge shears and shape a bush by cutting off the branch tips. This “flattop haircut” approach may look fine for a year or two, but it stimulates growth on the outermost branches, forces the bush to grow into an unnatural shape (your idea rather than the plant's) and fails to control size. The bush actually grows larger and becomes more difficult to bring back to size without being ruined. The exception is hedge-type bushes.
If neglected, many bushes get too big and dense. While the foliage might look OK this year, next year it just might be too big to prune back without butchering it. Instead, it's better to control size and shape by selectively pruning out a few entire branches each year. Cut them at a larger branch or the trunk. This also opens the plant to light and encourages healthy growth from the interior.
Unlike cane-type bushes, evergreens and other “nonsucker– type” grow from their existing stems. They develop a more permanent branch framework and usually need less pruning. If your landscaping was well planned, these bushes, especially evergreens, will grow to fit their spot with relatively little help. They'll need only a light annual pruning to remove dead branches and to control size and shape.
Cut or saw branches at the collar— just above where the branch joins the main trunk.
The tree will seal off and heal a properly cut collar.
The branch collar is the bark swell that encircles the branch. If left intact, this collar will soon grow over and cover the wound. Don't leave stubs. They'll rot and might become diseased.
It can be done, but it's easier to pull out an overgrown bush and plant one that will mature at a size that better fits the space.
Have the necessary tools for this DIY project lined up before you start—you’ll save time and frustration.
You'll need pruning shears, loppers for thick branches, and work gloves.
Avoid last-minute shopping trips by having all your materials ready ahead of time. Here's a list.
