Ideas for the Kitchen: Cabinet Door Inserts

Step 2: Remove the old panels

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Photo 1: Locate the lips

A door panel fits into grooves in the door's frame. To remove a panel, just cut away the lips on the back of the door.

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Photo 2: Rout away the lips

Run a pattern bit along a guide to remove the lips. Any straight board will work as a guide, but an L-shaped guide with stops speeds up the job.

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Photo 2A: Close-up of router bit

A pattern bit simplifies smooth door cutting.

To cut away the lips that secure the door panel (Photo 1), you'll need a “pattern bit”—a straight bit with a bearing that's the same diameter as the cutting diameter. You can buy a pattern bit for about $25, but most are too long to use with a 3/4-in.-thick guide. You may have to shop online to find a shorter bit. One source is routerbits.com. (Search for “3001” to find a bit with a cutting depth of 1/2 in.)

If you're working with just one or two cabinet doors, the only guide you'll need is a straight board. If you have a stack of doors to rout, a more elaborate guide will save you time (Photo 2). The stops automatically position the guide without measuring, and you can rout two sides without repositioning.

Examine the back of the door before you rout. If you find any nails, pull them out so they don't chip your router bit. Before you start cutting, set your router depth so the bit just touches the panel. After you cut away the lips, simply lift out the door panel. The router bit will leave rounded corners at each corner of the door frame; square them off with a chisel or utility knife.

Step 3: Install the metal inserts

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Photo 3: Install the metal

Frame the back of the insert with quarter-round molding to hold it in place. If you use a nail gun, aim carefully so you don't shoot through the face of the door.

Prefinish 1/4-in. quarter-round molding and use it to secure the inserts (Photo 3). When you place the insert into the door frame, make sure the punched side is face up (the punched side will feel slightly raised around the holes). Fasten the quarter round with 5/8-in. nails or brads. If you don't have a brad nailer or pinner, you can use a hammer; just be careful not to dent the metal.

Full Cloverleaf

Grecian

Windsor

Hexagonal

Buying Metal Inserts

Some home centers carry sheets of metal (including perforated) and will cut them for you for a small fee. But you'll find a much bigger selection online. Look for metal in the 16- to 20-gauge range. We bought directly from McNichols Co. (mcnichols.com) and did all our ordering over the phone. Its Web site is full of information (and a bit confusing). Look at its “Products” drop-down menu and go from there.

Do your measuring after you remove the cabinet doors to get accurate insert measurements. Order inserts 1/8 in. shorter in both the length and the width so the inserts just fit in the opening. If stainless is out of your price range, consider aluminum or plain steel (called “mill finish”). You can spray-paint your metal any color you want. No matter what finish you order, wash the metal with paint thinner to rinse off the manufacturing oils. If you choose not to paint the steel, spray it with a clear lacquer to prevent it from rusting.