Basic maintenance checklist
1 of 5Photo 1: Tighten all parts
Snug up all the nuts and bolts on your
garage door and check for worn parts
and replace where needed. Then spray all
the moving components with garage door
lubricant.
2 of 5Photo 2: Replace worn rollers
Replace the roller by unbolting the hinge and tilting the roller out of the track. Swap out the rollers and reinstall the hinge.
3 of 5Photo 3: Install new hinges
Write down the number that's
stamped into the hinge and pick up
the same number replacement hinge
at the hardware
store. Or take the old hinge with you to
match it up.
4 of 5Photo 4: Grease the track
Squeeze a large dollop of grease onto your gloved hand and wipe it onto the
track. Operate the opener several times to spread the grease along the track
and into the trolley.
5 of 5Photo 5: Lube everything that moves
Spray the roller shafts and hinges first. Wipe off the drippy
excess. Then slip a piece of cardboard behind the torsion springs
and soak them, too.
The fixes for a garage door that makes a racket when it opens and closes are fairly easy and will take
less than an hour. Start by tightening
all the door and track hardware (Photo
1). Use a deep socket and a ratchet on
all the nuts to snug them up. But don’t
overtighten—that can pull the carriage
bolt heads right through the door skin
or strip the lag screw holes.
Next, check for worn rollers and
hinges (Photo 2). Many track rollers have
unsealed bearings that self-destruct
after years of rolling around in a dirty
environment. The wear can be so severe
that the rollers actually wobble as the
door operates. If your rollers are worn,
consider replacing them with nylon
rollers with sealed bearings (available at garage door suppliers or online). Nylon
rollers are quieter and don’t require
periodic oiling. But they are more
expensive than steel.
Replace track rollers one at a time
(Photo 2). If your door uses torsion
springs mounted on the header above
the door, do NOT attempt to replace the
rollers in the bottom brackets. Those
brackets are under constant spring tension
and can cause serious injury if you
unbolt them. That’s a job for a pro.
Worn hinges are less common than
worn rollers. But sloppy hinges make a
lot of noise and can cause the door to
bind and wear out the tongue-and-groove
joints at the door sections. Some
play at the hinge is normal. But if you
see an oblong hole where the tubular
hinge pin mates with the hinge bracket,
replace the hinge. Gray dust and metal filings around the hinge pin are early
signs of wear.
Once you’ve replaced the worn door
components, check the garage door opener chain. A loose garage door opener chain
makes loud slapping sounds and
causes jerky door movements
that smack the rollers against the
track. So start by tightening the
chain (find the procedure in your
owner’s manual).
If you have a track drive opener,
the next step is to lubricate the
opener track with grease. If you
have a screw drive opener, grease
the threads (Photo 4).
Next, spray the hinges, roller
bearings (unsealed style), and springs (Photo 5)
with a garage door lube like the Prime Flo garage door lubrication kit (about $7 at home centers). Also hit the torsion
bar bearings, and
any other pivot points. The special garage door
lube penetrates the parts as a liquid
and dries to form a non-tacky grease
that won’t attract dirt and dust, which
can gum things up. Lubricate all moving
parts every six months to reduce
wear and keep the door quiet. Avoid
other lubricants such as oil, grease, or
spray lithium grease. They’re cheaper,
but they don’t penetrate as well and
tend to pick up dust and grit—just what you don’t want on moving parts.
Isolate the opener
1 of 2Photo 6: Add anti-vibration pads
Slide one anti-vibration pad between the mounting
bracket and the ceiling and the second pad under
the bracket. Then slip a fender washer onto the
new lag screw and drive it into the rafter with a
socket wrench or impact driver.
2 of 2Photo 7: Fasten brackets to rafters
Bolt all four
corners of the opener bracket to the rafters.
If you have an attached or
tuck-under garage and
your opener seems loud
inside the house, try this
step.
Mechanically isolate the
opener from the garage
rafters/trusses with
rubber pads. Cut rubber
pads out of an old tire, or
buy specially made
rubber/cork anti-vibration
pads. (Four 5-1/2- x 5-1/2-
x 3/8-in. pads are $14, available through our affiliation with amazon.com.)
You’ll be adding about an
inch in thickness, so you’ll
need four longer lag
screws and four fender washers.