• Share:
Repairing Decks and Railings

Easy fixes for common deck problems like rotten boards, wobbly railings and loose nails. Plus, see how to stiffen a bouncy, wobbly deck

By the DIY experts of The Family Handyman Magazine

  • ComplexityComplexityComplexity Moderate
  • close X

    If you have a little experience with hand and power tools, you're ready to tackle any of these fixes.

  • COST
  • Varies
  • close X

    Most of these fixes will cost you less than $20. Stiffening a bouncy deck with blocking will cost at least $40.

Replace broken deck boards

You don’t have to let a split, rotted or otherwise ugly deck board ruin the appearance of your deck. Simply replace it and in a year or so the replacement will blend right in.

You usually don’t have to replace an entire board. Just make sure to cut out a piece that spans at least three joists. The remainder should be at least that long. And don’t hesitate to cut out a little extra to keep adjacent decking joints staggered for better appearance.

The most difficult part is cutting out the damaged section cleanly (Photo 1). Don’t try to cut directly over a joist. Instead, cut to one side and screw on a cleat to support the new decking. It’s a fairly hefty cut for a jigsaw, so use a sharp, stiff blade to keep your cuts as straight and smooth as possible.

Predrill screw holes in the cleats so they pull tight to the joists (Photo 2). Also pull up on them so they butt tightly against the decking on each side as you screw them in.

Cut the new deck board from matching material, both in thickness and wood type. It’ll look different initially, but it’ll blend in after a year or so, especially if you clean and reseal or stain your deck. Cut the new deck board to fit snugly, then screw or nail it into place (Photo 3).

Strengthen wobbly posts

You don’t have to live with loose, wobbly railing posts when a couple of bolts will make them safe and solid. Measure the thickness of the post/framing assembly, add 1 in. and buy 1/2-in. diameter galvanized carriage bolts that length (plus a nut and washer for each) from any hardware store or home center.

Drill the 1/2-in. clearance holes well apart, one about 1-1/2 in. from the top of the framing and one about 1-1/2 in. up from the bottom of the post (Photo 1). You may have to angle the holes slightly to avoid joists, framing anchors or other obstructions. If your drill bit isn’t long enough to go through the post and framing, get a long spade bit. Versions up to 16 in. long are available at home centers and hardware stores.

Most posts are held fairly plumb by the railing, but check them anyway with a level and tap in shims to straighten them if necessary. Don’t  over-tighten the bolts; the heads will sink deep into soft wood without much effort.

Stiffen a bouncy deck

A deck that bounces when you walk across it won’t feel strong and solid, even if it meets structural requirements. The cause is usually long joist spans between beams or between a beam and the house.

To stiffen a deck, you have to be able to get to the framing underneath. You can add another beam, along with posts, to support the joists. However, this is a big job. We recommend that you first add rows of solid blocking every 3 to 4 ft. along the span (Photo 1). Run the first row down the middle of the span, check the deck for bounce, then add rows to further reduce it.

Use treated lumber blocking that’s the same size as the joists (usually 2x8 or 2x10). Install the blocking in rows along a chalk line snapped at a right angle to the joists. You’ll have to measure and cut each block separately to get a snug fit, since the joists are never exactly the same distance apart. Staggering the blocking in a step pattern (Photo 2) allows you to easily drive nails from both sides, rather than having to toenail.

Replace loose, popped nails

Decking swells and shrinks as it goes through repeated cycles of wet and dry seasons. This frequently causes nails to loosen and pop up above the deck boards. You can drive them down again, but chances are that’s only a short-term solution. They’ll probably pop up again after a few years. The long-term solution is to remove the popped nails and replace them with deck screws.

The trick is to pull the old nails without marring the decking. Always use a block under your prying tool (Photos 1 and 2). And work on tough-to-get-out nails using several steps. A diagonal cutter works well for nails that only protrude slightly (Photo 1). The slim jaws can slip under the head. You’ll only raise the nail a slight amount, so you may have to repeat this process two or three times. Once the nailhead is high enough, you can grip it with a cat’s paw or hammer claw without marring the deck board (Photo 2). Be sure to use thin wood blocks to protect the decking. Minor dents will disappear when the wood swells after the next rain.

There’s no need to drill a pilot hole if you send the screw down the old nail hole. However, one drawback of screws is that their heads are larger than nailheads and can be unsightly. We recommend that you buy deck screws in a color that most closely matches the aged decking.

Pull a headless nail with locking pliers

Pull a headless nail with locking pliers

If you can't pull a nail, hide it with a screw

If you can't pull a nail, hide it with a screw

Solutions For Stubborn Nails

If the head breaks off a stubborn nail and you can't get it with a pry bar, try pulling it with locking pliers. Grip the nail tip and roll the pliers over to get it going. If the nail shank breaks off, don’t worry. Just drill a pilot hole beside the nail and drive a screw. The screwhead will cover the nail.

Take out the sway with an angle brace

Some otherwise solid decks tend to sway or wobble as you walk across them, especially decks resting on tall posts 4 or more feet above the ground. Angle-bracing the posts is one good solution to this problem, but the braces often look tacky. Instead, install an angle brace underneath your deck. It’s a virtually invisible fix that all but eliminates sway.

If your longest 2x4 doesn’t span the entire distance, don’t worry. Add a second one starting from the other corner and run it back alongside the first, nailing it to at least two of the same joists. Have a helper hold the 2x4 in place while you drive the first nails. Driving 16d galvanized nails upward will give your hammer arm a workout!

Back to Top

Required Tools for this Project

Have the necessary tools for this DIY project lined up before you start—you’ll save time and frustration.

    • Hammer
    • Tape measure
    • Circular saw
    • Caulk gun
    • Cat's paw
    • Corded drill
    • Chalk line
    • Drill bit set
    • Jigsaw
    • Pliers
    • Safety glasses
    • Square

Required Materials for this Project

Avoid last-minute shopping trips by having all your materials ready ahead of time. Here's a list.

    • Construction adhesive
    • Carriage bolts
    • Deck boards
    • Deck screws
    • Nails
    • 2x4s
    • 2x8s or 2x10's

Comments from DIY Community Members

Share what's on your mind and see what other DIYers are thinking about.

1 - 3 of 3 comments
Show per page: 20   All

November 12, 12:51 PM [GMT -5]

Great article... can you expand it include warped face boards and other, more complex, deck problems?

March 30, 9:37 PM [GMT -5]

Do you mean that the deck joists that support the deck floor and attach to the house are rotten?

March 29, 12:19 PM [GMT -5]

I hired a handyman to repair /replace an outside stairwell leading to a rear deck. After ripping off tiles and floorboards, it exposed rotten 2x6 joists. These joists runs from the main house. How do we remove and replace these rotten parts and retain strenght and integrity of original joists ? Will metal brace be strong enough to join a continuing joists?

+ Add Your Comment

Add Your Comment

Repairing Decks and Railings

Please add your comment

Log in to My Account

Log in to enjoy membership benefits from The Family Handyman.

  • Forgot your password?
Don’t have an account yet?

Sign up today for FREE and become part of The Family Handyman community of DIYers.

Member benefits:

  • Get a FREE Traditional Bookcase Project Plan
  • Sign up for FREE DIY newsletters
  • Save projects to your project binder
  • Ask and answer questions in our DIY Forums
  • Share comments on DIY Projects and more!
Join Us Today

Report Abuse

Reasons for reporting post

Free OnSite Newsletter

Get timely DIY projects for your home and yard, plus a dream project for your wish list!

Follow Us

Featured Product

Buy Now