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May 23, 5:04 PM [GMT -5]

Carol:

I would consider using a great solid acrylic stain vs. paint. I used one 19 years ago on my deck in Florida, and I am now planning to use the new Olympic RESCUE IT! on it this summer.( It has a great dummy factor built in just for me!)

There are many on the market, just pick a brand name, follow the prep instructions,and let 'er rip! :)

June 02, 9:47 PM [GMT -5]

I stripped my large cedar deck that's covered by an extension of my house's roof. It's also above my walkout basement, so it's high off the ground. I started the project BEFORE reading this article and made the mistake of trying to skip the stripper and just use a bleach-type cleaner.

AFTER I read this article, I bought some gel-type stripper (I believe it contains Lye, or caustic soda). It works great but you have to follow the instructions in the article and scrub it with a stiff nylon brush. I also used a wire brush for the nooks and crannies. I used long-cuff rubber chemical gloves, but I wish I would've purchased a pair that went up my whole arm (I found these "chem-lab" gloves on Amazon). I sometimes used the hose to lightly mist the working surface if it had dried before I could scrub it.

I also found that using a small kitchen sponge was better than the pad applicator for the inside of the railings and spindles. I kept a a bucket of clean water on hand that I dipped the applicator and scrub brushes in frequently to remove wood fibers and buildup. Also, I needed extra applicator pads because the stripper deteriorated them overtime.

I used the bleach-type cleaner with a garden sprayer to do a final cleaning before I stained. The whole project was alot of work and I sometimes question my final pick for the deck stainer/sealer. I wonder how much luck my neighbors have who only use a pressure washer. Maybe a combination of a light coat of stripper and pressure washing would be a good compromise of quality and effort. You probably don't have to do as much prep work if your using a solid stain, but I used a semi-transparent stain/sealer.

On a final note, I applied two coats to get a little darker color. But I learned along the way the most transparent and semi-transparent stains have to be recoated within 15 mins. After the first cost has dried, the second coat of sealer can't properly adhere to the wood. I guess as a rule, you can't apply sealer on top of dried sealer. I hope you can learn for the mistakes I made.

March 14, 9:54 PM [GMT -5]

I have completed this project several times over the years and I found my staining finishes lasted longer with a "TOP" semi transparent stain mixed with just a little lindseed oil which brings to the surface such and incredible wood grain luster and all applied with a good 4" brush and a good 2" brush for trim and spindles. If you take a little extra time and do this you will be completely thrilled at the rich wood grain beauty of your stain finished deck.

May 26, 11:25 AM [GMT -5]

I'm not sure if there is a specific paint and sealer made specifically for your conditions but I think that any good paint and sealer like Cabot or Valspar would do the trick if you put on at least two good coats. Make sure you sand down the old paint and sealer before you repaint it. Also, you may want to sand lightly between coats of paint to help it bond better. When you are buying paint or sealer, read the labels to see if it can be used in your conditions and see if there are any other things you need to do to prepare the wood and surfaces.

May 03, 12:27 PM [GMT -5]

My deck is painted and I live in Colorado at 4,000 ft altitude. The sun takes all paint off in no time. Is there one type of paint that works best? What steps should I go through prior to painting? The wood now is bare in spots, cracked, and DRY. It was new about 10 years ago. Any help would be appreciated.

Carol in CO

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