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February 11, 10:19 PM [GMT -5]

I have 35 years experience as a trim carpenter, the only thing I might add is I install my side pieces of casing first and leave the top 12" of the casing loose until I cut and fit the header, which usually needs some adjustment on the mitercuts depending on how square the door jambs are as well as other factors. You can use the miter saw or belt sander to adjust the miters to fit on the header casing. (remember, you can always cut more off, but you can't add to the length) One more tip is to cut the header trim a little long, because it usually needs some adjustment. Once all fits to a nice tight joint on both sides, you can finish nailing. Another method is to add a rosette in the corners, if you lack the expertise for fine miter cuts. I think the ultimate look is to add a Crosshead instead of the header casing, you can still use square cuts, but it gives you a classic elegant look. http://www.overthetopdoortrim.com

February 10, 10:41 AM [GMT -5]

Thank you. This is very informative article, with so many details. I would appreciate if you can add some more details to make good coping, as this missing in almost all the articles I read on onternet.

February 06, 3:00 PM [GMT -5]

It was not immediately apparent that when trimming a door frame that you must first install one leg, strike or hinge side

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