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How to Use a Level Over Long Distances

Level over short, medium and long distances with ease. Whether you're installing a dropped ceiling, laying out a deck, or building a whole house, these tools and techniques will make it easier.

By the DIY experts of The Family Handyman Magazine

How to Use a Level Over Long Distances

Level over short, medium and long distances with ease. Whether you're installing a dropped ceiling, laying out a deck, or building a whole house, these tools and techniques will make it easier.

Overview

A 2-ft. level works just fine on small projects like installing small sections of wall tile, building closet walls and installing single cabinets. But when you have to quickly and accurately set elevations over long distances for bigger jobs like building decks, digging trenches and setting concrete form boards, this trusty ol' level is out of its league. Any time you try to pencil a long level line by repositioning that 2-ft., or even 4-ft., level end to end, you'll build in an error that magnifies as you extend the line. There are several tools you can use indoors and out for improving your leveling results. We'll show you the best techniques and tools for short-, medium- and long-distance leveling.

Two levels for short distances (4 - 15 ft.)

Combining a straight board and a 2-ft. level is a good yet inexpensive way to level over shorter distances. For tasks like laying out deck beam heights (Photo 1), set your level on top of a perfectly straight 2x4 to accurately extend its reach. Two-by-six and 2x8 lumber is too heavy to hold steady. To make a lot of measurements quickly, strap the level to the 2x4 with duct tape or an elastic cord.

For jobs where absolute accuracy isn't essential, like digging slopes in trenches, use an inexpensive line level (Photo 2). Hook it directly onto a strong string, like nylon mason's line. For the level to work properly, use only one line level per string, draw the line very tight and make sure there's little wind to blow the level around.

Electronic water levels work well at medium distances (15 - 50 ft.)

The simple principle behind a water level is that the water columns inside two open ends of a single tube will be level with each other. Using crude water levels (like a section of garden hose) requires two people. For solo work, we recommend you buy an electronic water level (Photo 4). It's highly accurate, has a 25-ft. working radius and allows you to work alone and around corners because it “honks” when the water in the working tube is level with the reference line back at the unit. If you first establish a reference mark at the level and pencil many layout lines around a room (including around corners, Photo 5), you can connect the marks with chalk lines. Measure up (or down) from any line to accurately set acoustical ceiling track, install level wainscoting or add lumber wall blocking for hanging cabinets.

When filling the tube with water, add red, water-based food coloring for easier viewing. Clamp off both tube ends with the clips provided so that water doesn't suddenly spill out.

For best results, avoid water leaks from the water level by clipping the end of the working tube when not actually using it for a measurement. Take care not to step on the tube as you move around a room.

If water does leak out or air bubbles enter the tubing, you'll have to refill the tube and recalibrate the unit to maintain accuracy.

Laser levels: Best for establishing heights at long distances (50 - 100 ft.)

We recommend that you use a rotary laser level (Photo 6) for tasks like setting concrete form boards, cutting fence post tops or building retaining walls. Like a lighthouse, the rotary laser shoots a level beam in a continuous circle. Rotary laser levels are the fastest tools for accurately establishing leveling marks (in direct view of the laser) anywhere on a building site. For big time savings, rent a rotary laser that is self-leveling.

Rotary lasers work in tandem with a “target” laser detector. The laser's continuous beam is too faint to be seen in daylight, so a sensor in the laser detector will chirp when it detects the beam. Mounted on an elevation rod (the kind surveyors use), the laser detector slides up and down the rod until it “finds” the laser beam to establish the proper elevation.

For the fastest results setting footing form boards, have one person use the elevation rod to find the laser beam and a second person set the form boards (Photo 7). Prepare a form board for placement by lifting it against a support stake and driving a couple of 3-in. deck screws through the board, ready to set into the stake. Once the laser detector chirps to signal “level,” drive the screws home.

Caution!

Don't stare directly at the laser light beam.

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Required Tools for this Project

Have the necessary tools for this DIY project lined up before you start—you’ll save time and frustration.

    • Tape measure
    • Line level
    • Level

You'll also need mason's line, an electronic water level, and a laser level.

Comments from DIY Community Members

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December 31, 2:04 PM [GMT -5]

I use metal studs for extended leveling. Cheap, light,. straight, don't rust

September 20, 12:34 PM [GMT -5]

Perfectly straight 2x4 lumber seems rare here. But 2x4 metal studs are cheap, straight, and make nice 8' level extensions.

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