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March 16, 12:24 AM [GMT -5]

We are about to rip out the old tub and surround and replace the tub with a shower stall (same size as tub) and new surround. Is there anything else or different we should know or learn that may be different from a tub install? I also have to redo the floor. but that is under a different category :)

December 17, 5:40 PM [GMT -5]

I have an acrylic tub and it is impossible to keep clean. Anyone have any tricks they use?

August 17, 2:27 PM [GMT -5]

One point for the do it yourselfer that you are missing here is the time it takes to get the tub plumbed and leveled. First of all a new 3/4" plywood should be installed under the tub because there is a good chance that the floor is sagging from all the weight the tub is setting on. I don;t care if you had quick-crete as the former base.
You literally have to pick that new tub at least 10 times to reset the floor to get it leveled and plumbed by shimming. The tub needs to sit on a level base. With the weight of the tub that is a daunting task at first moving it around in that small room. By this time you will be calling in a contractor or just giving up and taking your chances even if the tub is not level.. This can result in all kinds of future problems with the plumbing and the wall surround as well.
This is 2012, why would anyone want to use a cheap steel tub. My advice would to purchase an acrylic tub that rests on a solid acrylic base. Although they are not cheap they always look beautiful and are by far the easiest to clean as the surface is non porous. Although not scratch proof any scratches can easily be buffed out and no harsh chemicals or powder cleansers are needed to keep this clean. and shiny. Steel tubs over time will get stained often showing some rust usually around the drain at first as the porecelin coating wears down. As it gets scratched by many of the household cleansers the surface becomes porous and it is impossible to get out the stains and dirt. There are companies that will paint your tub known as glazing to recoat the tub but it really looks crappy and uneven. It like putting a band aid on a sore that never goes away.
So work smart, really know what you are getting into when you do a job like this. And most importantly don;t scrimp on the materials you purchase. Really the most expensive project is one you do more than once. If you mess up a project like this I guarantee you will very happy to leave it to someone who specializes in this kind of job no matter what it costs.

October 21, 9:37 AM [GMT -5]

Sorry. I'm stupid

October 21, 9:34 AM [GMT -5]

U suck. there is no story 2 read

October 21, 9:34 AM [GMT -5]

U suck. there is no story 2 read

October 12, 2:39 PM [GMT -5]

This article gave me enough convidence to start the project. Currently I have the tub and shower functional and am about to clean up the wall and start tiling.

May 14, 1:54 AM [GMT -5]

Am just starting this project. Very nice article but it doesn't really address how to level and secure the tub. My tub has total of 11 small legs and two horizontal stiffener supports for the front apron. Each foot should be supported equally and with the tub in place there is no way to insert or measure for shims. No one ever addresses this problem or how to install the tub in a mortar bed other than "do it". For this installation (on a slab) it was recommended by the manufacturer to place a mat of spun bonded polypropylene lawn fabric to prevent "squeaking" but his does not address how to level the tub. Most complaints about acrylic tubs are about cracking and I believe this is primarily the result of incorrectly supported tubs/surrounds, or stresses caused by nailing or screwing through the material without having clearance holes with chamfers to eliminate stress points. More information in this area would be a big plus.

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