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May 09, 8:20 PM [GMT -5]
As a life long builder/ general contractor I must say Your June 2013artical about finishing a basement contained some of the worst advice tat I have ever seen given by any DIY publisher> bar none.
May 08, 10:50 PM [GMT -5]
My builder rolled out insulation on my walls covered in foil. Should I just stud out over that? Also is a drop ceiling better around ductwork?
March 12, 10:53 AM [GMT -5]
This project is georgeous. But time is money. I chose to do it with a DIY basement finishing kit. Fast easy and mold free. Damp basement in the spring and fall. I did a drop ceiling and fire blocked with drywall. All in all small area 20 by 20 cost me $6000.00 but I was done fast. My walls were up in one weekend! Wiring was fast, but had to wait on electrician. Drop ceiling and trim took a weekend. Still need to paint..gotta choose a color we can both agree on. Tax refund helped too!
November 03, 8:56 AM [GMT -5]
I did my basement already. I am glad my I didn't put the insulation right against te wall but I didn't have furring strips. I used this do it your self wall panel. I didn't have to frame it came with aluminum brackets and gave an air gap. But it did use the white foam you don't recommend, but it was thick and is R-11 and since it was encapsulated between some cement like board I think it will lasst. Anyway it is warrenteed for life. I liked it because if we get a flood like the east coast did my wall are not foing to fall apare. they sent a free sample to me and I did like the guy on the phone said.."stick it in a bucket of water for a week and a peice of drywall then call me." I once had water from my icemaker in the basement it was a mess. Anyway I used these wall panels from a local factory called wahoo they are in dexter mi for what its worth.
enjoyed your knowledge I am good but not that good and this was easy and fast.
May 21, 8:51 PM [GMT -5]
i need to finish my basement but i need to add more support to the floor in my living room and kitchen that is directly above my basment. how do i go about doing this or where do i find it
March 19, 7:15 PM [GMT -5]
I've lived in a older frame house for 13 years - and for 12 of them, I've puzzled how to even start the project diy, to finish my basement, I have never been able to find, at least in print, of how to even begin the challenges this basement presents:
The foundation walls are white-washed, white-washed large stones, set in cement. To say that the walls are "slightly uneven", is the understatement of the century! So, there's my uneven surface problem - Now, how does one fasten ANYTHING, into granite rocks? Stone-Mason? Dynamite??
I know thatt many of these old type, "rustic" foundations must exist, and many places, I presume, besides north-central Wisconsin... Is there any technique out there for dealing with these "antique" rustic, foundations, to finish a basement made of them?
Thank you - I'd love to hear how to do this!
March 06, 8:45 PM [GMT -5]
Are plans available for the entertainment center pictured - great looking entertainment center!
March 06, 8:43 PM [GMT -5]
March 06, 8:42 PM [GMT -5]
January 29, 2:02 AM [GMT -5]
When I completed my first basement in NE Ohio - known for cold winters, I listened to a friend who is a local home builder. He said a basement that is primarily underground - 6' or more is genrally about 60 - 65 degrees year round -without insulation just the block or solid concrete walls. He recommended I use no insualtion, no vapor barrier and install the 2x4 studs directly against the walls and then the drywall - no insulation and no vapor barrier. Well - he was right! Saved money on installation and in heating and cooling. Think about it - one of the big things currently in HVAC these days are the systems that install grothermal assisted heat pumps to utilize the stable temperature below grade several feet. Same principle. And if you are worried about moisture - no problem. IWhat proved it to me was I installed an access plate for my water shutoff valve that was about 4' off the floor making it about 3' below grade. Whenever I pulled the access cover I could feel the air moving - and air moving means little to no chance of condensation. I know many will disagree but I did this in the mid- 1990's and when I moved in 2005 still had absolutely no issues what so ever with moisture or condensation or cold. I will do the same thing once again in my current home that has 8" concrete walls versus block walls.
January 15, 11:13 PM [GMT -5]
Hi we are in the design process for finishing our basement and was wondering if you can use 1x4 @ 12"oc furring anchored thru the polystyrene insulation foam into the concrete wall?( We have limited space and want to utilize all of it). If we have to build out the wall with 2x6 then we are loosing all of this space. Can you then fasten the sheetrock to the furring without having any moisture issues? We appreciate any feedback.
January 15, 4:20 PM [GMT -5]
The plan shown shows the stud wall spaced 1/2" off the foam insulation. Other plans I've seen say to put them in contact, to prevent any air circulation (which could encourage condensation/mod growth). Any comments on which is better?
I've also seen where people only lay foam along the top of the wall (insulating the part of the wall that is above ground, most bang for the buck). The bottom half of the wall is left uninsulated, allowing any condensate that does form to have a clear path to dry on its own. Any comments woudl be appreciated.
December 16, 10:53 AM [GMT -5]
I used 2 inch pink board on my walk-out basement. I have two main walls that are block and are exposed (not under ground). The 2" pink board has an R value of 10 and cost me $22 per sheet at H.D. The 1.5" was $20 per sheet and has an R value of 7. The price difference wasn't worth giving up the R value of 3. I read somewhere that you should use no less than 1.5" pink board because the thinner boards do not give you enough of a vapor barrier. Not sure if this is true or not? I taped my seems with Tyvek house wrap tape and used foam board glue ($3.69 per tube) to stick it to the walls. The foam board glue works well because its pasty and sticky like toothpaste which gives a good initial hold. I am planning on using 2x4 for my walls and I might use fiberglass insulation to get a better R value.
** Side note: I also used UGL paint on my walls prior to installation...never had any water problems but just wanted to be extra safe.
October 04, 9:20 AM [GMT -5]
My builder has fastened rolls of insulation (foil covered) to the walls of my basement. Do I have to remove these or can I frame alongside these?
April 24, 4:23 PM [GMT -5]
Project in-process. Ready to frame. Doing project as outlined.
Can Kraft faced insulation be used in the stud wall? For some reason unfaced insulation is hard to come by where I live. Kraft faced and wrapped in plastic insulation is everywhere though.
Thank you for a great project!
March 25, 3:19 PM [GMT -5]
i was wondering about fireblocking. Since your frame is 1/2 inch from the wall, I would thik that you need some kind of fireblocking at the top at the very least. Since this is now required in most states, d oyou addresss this anywhere?
Very nice work.
January 17, 12:35 AM [GMT -5]
your water heater and furnace have specific requirements set by both building codes and the manufacturer. The most important is fire resistance of the surround. Make sure you use fire resistant drywall to finish the closet for your mechanicals. A water heater's space requirement is usually printed on the label. Generally you only need a setback from the gas inlet and, of course, a means to take it out when it needs replacing. The furnace is more tricky. Newer homes may have a fresh air inlet from the outside. This is because they are wapped so tight (insulated) that you need a source of exterior air to maintain equal pressure in your home. Older homes generally get this "fresh" air from all the leaks and cracks in walls, windows, doors. Regardless, when you enlose your furnace, you need to give it a source of replacement air, beyond the cold air return. Also, make sure you provide cold air returns in your finished basement since you will be closing off the existing duct work from your new living space.
January 17, 12:24 AM [GMT -5]
You should not need to remove the existing expanded foam (EPS). The main reason to use either EPS or XPS is for a thermal barrier between the cold wall and warm insulation, drywall, wood studs. The thermal barrier prevents condensation on the interior structure. If you would like more R value, you can glue a layer of EPS/XPS over top the existing layer. The benefit to using EPS or XPS is it does not promote mold growth and have similar resitance to moisture.
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