Many ATV owners have lost their low-pressure tire gauge and use an auto tire gauge instead. Big mistake! It won't give you an accurate reading. And according to our pro, Josh Fischer, (the owner of Unlimited Motor Sports Repair), most customers overfill their tires, sometimes by as much as 20 to 30 lbs. That reduces traction and increases the “bounce” factor that could throw you from the machine. In 2006, ATV accidents in the United States resulted in an estimated 882 deaths and 146,600 visits to the emergency room. Don't be the next statistic. Inflate your tires to the proper pressure.
Constant velocity (CV) boots keep the lubricating grease inside the joint and the dirt out—until they crack. Then you have to replace them—and fast! Once they're open to the environment, the grease attracts dirt, which grinds up the metal parts in no time. Instead of replacing an $18 boot, you'll be buying the entire joint at $125 a pop.
It's easy to check the condition of the CV boots. Just look for fresh grease around the pleats. If you see any, the boot is toast.
Replacing a CV boot is fairly simple maintenance, but you'll have to remove the axle shaft from the machine. To do that, you'll have to jack up the machine and support it with jack stands (see your service manual for jacking and support locations). Then remove the wheel and the axle nut.
Next, remove the axle from the differential. Most axle styles pop out with a crowbar, but some require a special procedure, so refer to your service manual. Service manuals are worth the investment if you plan to do your own work (check the dealer or online for prices and availability).
You can buy individual CV boots, but as long as you have the axle shaft out of the machine, it's best to replace both of them at once. You'll also need a band installation tool. Buy one from your local dealer, or check online (search “ATV tools and parts”). Once the axle is out, follow the boot replacement procedure shown.
Most of you operate your ATVs in dirty conditions. That's fine; they're designed for that. But you have to keep the air filter clean. According to Josh, just about every machine he works on has a seriously clogged filter. A dirty filter lowers your gas mileage and causes poor engine performance. Cleaning the filter is messy, but anybody can do it.
Buy an air filter cleaning kit from your dealer. It contains a bottle of cleaning solution and a spray can of filter oil. You'll also need a plastic cleaning tub, rags, a bucket of soapy water and chemical-resistant gloves.
Cleaning and lubing your motorcycle chain takes only a few minutes and can dramatically increase the life of the chain. Many bike owners do it wrong. Lube needs to be applied to the part of the chain that meshes with the cogs. If you apply it to the outside of the chain, centrifugal force will throw it off before it can penetrate to the chain's innards. Josh recommends the Grunge Brush (available through our affiliation with Amazon.com) to scrub the crud off the chain (see photo).
Josh replaces a lot of cables that could last much longer with periodic lubrication. And, with replacements costing $20 and up, regular lubrication is just plain smart. Lubricate the cables twice per season. It's easy to do, but you'll need this special lubrication tool for an effective job. Buy it (and a can of spray cable lube) at your dealer or online.
This simple drain-and-refill procedure should be done regularly. But many owners neglect it, resulting in huge repair bills. Refer to your owner's manual for recommended change intervals and the proper type of lube oil.