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Photo 1: Pull the broken wheel stud
Place the remover around the head of the broken wheel stud, behind the hub.
Center the driving screw over the stud and tighten it with a
ratchet until the stud pops out the back.
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Photo 2: Pull in the new wheel stud
Stop tightening when the head of the wheel stud sits flush with the back of
the hub. Install the second lug nut (the one you didn't toss) on the new
stud—it'll go on easier. Tighten with a torque wrench.
If you’re just like everyone else, you’ve tightened
the lug nuts on your car without using a torque
wrench. You’re an “all the muscle you can put
into it” kind of guy, and now you’re staring at a
broken wheel stud. You can fix this yourself in about
an hour and for less than $50. You’ll need to buy
a tie rod end remover (OTC No. 7315A, at
tooldiscounter.com), or rent one from an auto
parts store. Then buy a new stud and two new
lug nuts (yes, two of them). Next, stop at the
hardware store and get a handful of washers
with a hole diameter slightly larger than the
threaded portion of the stud.
Above all, don’t hammer out the broken stud.
That’s the worst thing you can do! The hammer
blows can wreck your wheel bearings and turn
this into a much bigger repair bill. Instead, squeeze the
broken stud out with the remover tool (Photo 1).
It’s staked into the hub, so the tough part is getting
it to budge. Once it moves, the rest is easy.
Rotate the hub until you find a deep recess so
you can angle the stud into the hole. Then pull
it through. Next, place a bunch of washers over
the stud and spin on the lug nut. Crank down
on the lug nut to pull the staked portion of the
new stud into the hub (Photo 2).
By this point, you’ve probably stretched the
threads or damaged the bevel. So toss the nut
(they’re cheap). If you can’t fit the new stud into
the hub, you may have to remove the brake
dust shield (drill out the rivets and replace
them with stainless steel screws, nuts and