Overview
Grouting can be a rewarding
task. It's the last step in a
tile job, so you know you're
almost done. And filling the
joints with grout brings out the
beauty of the tile. But if you've
ever had grout turn rock hard
before getting it off the tile, you
know grouting can also be a
nightmare. So to help you avoid
problems and get the best results
with the least effort, we've
assembled these grouting tips.
Let the grout slake
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Let grout set, then remix
Remix the grout after letting it set for 10 or
15 minutes. Add a little water if the grout is
too thick.
It's tempting to skip this step, but it's
important to let the grout set for 10 minutes
after mixing. This step, called slaking,
allows the water to completely
moisten the dry ingredients. Remix the
grout after the slaking period and adjust
the mixture by adding a little more powder
or water until you reach the viscosity
of mayonnaise. Be careful, though—it
doesn't take much of either to radically
change the consistency.
Don't spread too much grout at once
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Apply grout to the wall
Scoop grout from the bucket with your grout float and
apply it to the wall with upward strokes. Don't worry about
getting it into the joints yet.
Temperature and humidity affect how quickly grout
starts to harden after you spread it on the wall. And
once it does start to harden, you'll really have to hustle
to get it cleaned off the tile and get the joints
shaped before the grout turns rock hard. Avoid this
problem by grouting small areas at a time. Start by
spreading grout onto a 3 x 3-ft. area. Finish grouting,
shaping the joints and cleaning each section before
proceeding.
Force grout into the joints
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Hold grout float at 45-degrees
Fill the joints by pushing the grout at an angle to the joints
with a grout float. Start in one corner and work methodically
to fill all the joints.
For a long-lasting grout job, make sure all the joints
are completely filled with grout. To accomplish this,
make several passes over the same area from different
directions with the grout float. Hold the float with its
face at an angle of about 45 degrees to the tile to force
the grout into the joint. When the joints are filled,
remove excess grout from the face of the tiles by holding
the float at almost 90 degrees to the tile and scraping
it off.
Tool the joints
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Shape the joints
Pull the rounded corner of
the grout float over every
joint to shape them.
Shape and compact the
grout by dragging a tool
across every joint. The tool
can be anything from the
rounded corner of the
grout float to the rounded
end of a toothbrush handle.
Whatever is handy
and has about the right
radius to create a slightly
concave joint will work.
Don't use metal tools.
They can damage the tile
or leave marks.
Use a clean, damp sponge to remove grout
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Remove excess grout with a sponge
Remove grout from the face of the tile with the corner of a damp sponge.
Swipe from bottom to top, using a clean corner of the sponge for each
stroke.
Start with a clean bucket of water. Wet your
grouting sponge and wring it out until it's
just damp. Then, starting along one side of
the grouted area, position the sponge so that
the corner of one long side of the sponge is
in contact with the wall and drag the sponge
in a continuous stroke up the wall. Now
rotate the sponge to expose a clean corner
and repeat the process alongside the first
stroke. When you've used all four corners of
the sponge, rinse it in clean water, wring it
out, and continue the process until you've
cleaned the entire area once. Clean the tiles
two or three more times using the same
process until they're free of grout residue. A
thin film of grout may appear when the
water evaporates. Buff this off with a soft
cloth.
Don't scrub the grout or use too much water
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Don't use a wet sponge
Don't use a dripping wet sponge to clean grout from the
tile. If water runs down, the sponge is too wet.
Let the grout harden slightly before you clean off the
excess. Test the grout by pressing on it with your finger.
When it's hard enough to resist denting, you can
start cleaning the excess grout from the face of the
tile and shaping the joints. Two common mistakes at
this point are using too much water, and scrubbing
the tile like you're washing a wall. Too much water
will weaken the tile and cause the grout color to be
uneven when it dries. And scrubbing doesn't remove
grout efficiently; it just moves it around.
Remove grout from corners before caulking
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Remove grout to make room for caulk
Remove grout from inside corners and along the tub to
make room for caulk. Use a utility knife for narrow spaces
or an old screwdriver or putty knife for wider joints.
Because it's flexible and can handle slight movement,
caulk is used at corners instead of grout. For a good
tile installation, apply a neat bead of matching caulk
at vulnerable areas like along the tub or countertop
and at inside corners. But to achieve a good-quality
caulk joint, you'll first have to remove the grout from
these areas. Most home centers and tile shops will
have caulk to match the color of your grout.
Seal porous tile before grouting
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Spray sealer on floor tile
Apply a thin coat of sealer to porous stone. Follow the application instructions on
the label. Wipe up excess sealer with a cloth to avoid puddles. Then let the sealer dry
before you grout.
If you don't seal porous tile and
stone, grout will stick like glue and
be nearly impossible to clean off.
There are two different products
that can make it easier to clean
grout from porous stone and tile. If
you're installing a matte finish tile
or other tile with a rough or porous
surface but don't want the sheen
that a sealer would leave, apply a
liquid grout release product. Grout
release forms a thin film that prevents
grout from sticking but washes
off as you clean off the grout.
Use a sealer rather than grout
release if you want to enhance the
color of stone or leave a “wet”
looking finish. You may have to
apply another coat of sealer after
grouting for maximum protection
and to enhance the color of the
stone.
