Wood Finishing Tips

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A fine finish is the crowning touch that brings out the true beauty of wood. Learn the key steps in the sanding and finishing process, and discover how to insure good results. This article offers tips for a smooth, successful finish and shows how to avoid common pitfalls.

By the DIY experts of The Family Handyman Magazine

TIME
Multi-day
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TIME
Multi-day
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Water-based finishes are ready to re-coat in a few hours, but most solvent-based finishes need to dry overnight.

COMPLEXITY
Simple
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COMPLEXITY
Simple
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Pay attention to each step, and don't try to rush the process.

COST
$20 - $100
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COST
$20 - $100
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Buy a quality finish—it makes a difference.

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By the DIY experts of The Family Handyman Magazine

Sanding tips
Choosing a finish
Applying the finish
Between coats

Sanding tips

Sand with the grain

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Sand with the grain

Sand with the grain when hand sanding or using a belt sander. Scratches are hard to see when they run parallel to the grain. But even the lightest scratches across the grain are obvious, especially after staining.

Hand-sand the curves

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Hand-sand the curves

Sand curved surfaces—and other areas an electric sander can't reach—by hand. Treat all areas equally, using the same progression of sandpaper grits for both hand and power sanding.

Sand without leaving scratches

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Sand without leaving scratches

A random orbital sander leaves scratches that are practically invisible, so you can sand across joints where grain changes direction. But move slowly (about 1 inch per second) and apply light pressure. Otherwise, you'll get swirly scratches (next photo).

Detail of scratched wood

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Detail of scratched wood

Random orbital sander scratches.

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Sanding always progresses from coarse to finer and finer sandpaper. Whether you're sanding by hand or using a power tool, start with 80-grit to sand away blemishes, then use 120-grit and finally 180-grit. Using these exact grits isn't vital (100-150-180 works too), but it's important to progress in steps, removing deeper scratches and leaving finer scratches each time.

Choosing a finish

Test stains, thoroughly!

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Test stains, thoroughly!

You can't rely on those stain samples on display in stores. Actual color varies a lot, depending on the type of wood and how you prepared it for finishing. So save scraps from your project, run them through the same sanding process and use them to test finishes. If you didn't build the item you're finishing, run tests on an inconspicuous area—the underside of a table, for example. Test stain on scraps to get the color you want. Leaving excess stain on the wood for longer or shorter periods won't affect the color much. If it's a custom color you're after, you can mix stains of the same brand.

Test clear finishes, too

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Test clear finishes, too

Water-based polyurethane affects the color only slightly. Oil-based poly has an amber tone that can dramatically change the color of stained or unstained wood. The same stain was used on the samples shown.

Inspect before you stain

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Inspect before you stain

Turn out the lights and shine light at a low angle across the wood to reveal imperfections. Flag the problem areas with masking tape and sand them out.

Watch for blotchy wood

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Watch for blotchy wood

Some woods absorb stain unevenly, which causes dark blotches to appear. Birch, maple, pine and cherry can all play this ugly trick on you. It's hard to eliminate this effect, but you can limit it by applying a wood conditioner before staining. Conditioner also prevents wood's end grain from absorbing more stain than the face grain. It's sold wherever stains and finishes are.

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These photos will show you how to choose a finish for your project.

Applying the finish

Better brushes are the key

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Better brushes are the key

Usually, a brush is the best tool for applying polyurethane. For water-based poly, a synthetic brush (such as nylon or polyester) is best. For oil-based poly, use a natural-bristle brush. In either case, plan to spend a few dollars extra for a good-quality brush. Quality brushes hold more finish, lay it on smoothly and are less likely to leave lost bristles in your clear coat. If you clean your brush immediately after use, it'll serve you well far into the future.

Leave mistakes alone (usually)

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Leave mistakes alone (usually)

When you notice a run, missed spot or other problem in the polyurethane you applied minutes earlier, you'll be tempted to brush it out. Don't. The finish may look wet, but chances are it's already sticky, and brushing will only make a mess. There are a couple of exceptions to this rule: You can pop tiny air bubbles with a pin, and you can pluck out a hair, a lost bristle or unfortunate fly using sharp tweezers and a steady hand.

Wipe instead of brush

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Wipe instead of brush

Wipe oil-based polyurethane onto hard-to-brush surfaces using a soft, lint-free cloth. Wiping leaves a thinner coat than brushing, so you'll have to apply more coats. Water-based poly becomes sticky too fast for wiping.

Use a pad on large areas

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Use a pad on large areas

Apply water-based polyurethane to large surfaces fast by using a paint pad. Water-based poly dries quickly and may not allow enough “wet” time for brushing out big areas.

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Clean project and the surrounding area thoroughly before beginning the finishing process. Dust settling on wet polyurethane will give your finish the look and feel of razor stubble. So clean the area you're working in and let the dust settle. Then dust the workpiece with a soft, lint-free cloth. Don’t use tack cloth—it can leave a residue that interferes with adhesion.

Between coats

Don't sand through the stain

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Don't sand through the stain

When sanding between coats, it's easy to rub right through the clear coat, removing the stain below. So sand super lightly after the first coat, just enough to cut down any dust whiskers on the surface. If there are bigger problems—such as runs—deal with them after the second coat when you can sand a bit harder. To repair rubbed-through spots, just apply new stain. Immediately wipe away any stain that gets on the surrounding polyurethane.

Sand curves with pad

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Sand curves with pad

When sanding between coats, smooth curves with a steel wool substitute such as 3M's Scotchbrite pads. Steel wool leaves fibers behind, which can cause stains in the finish.

Sand fine surfaces with wet/dry sandpaper

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Sand fine surfaces with wet/dry sandpaper

Lightly sand between coats with 400-grit wet/dry sandpaper, which won't fall apart when it gets wet. A little water provides lubrication and keeps the finish from clogging the paper. Sanding after each coat (except the last) rubs out imperfections and roughens the surface for better adhesion of the next coat. In most cases, this is a quick job, more like wiping the surface than sanding it. When the sanding is done, wipe away the residue with a damp rag.

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Always sand lightly between coats of urethane or varnish to eliminate roughness and minor imperfections and to give the next coat better adhesion. Use 180 grit or finer sandpaper and sand with the grain.

Required Tools for this Project

Have the necessary tools for this DIY project lined up before you start—you’ll save time and frustration.

Dust mask
Orbital sander
Paintbrush

For water-based finishes, use synthetic bristle brushes and foam pads.

For oil-based finishes, use natural bristle brushes.

Required Materials for this Project

Avoid last-minute shopping trips by having all your materials ready ahead of time. Here's a list.

Use medium through extra-fine grit sandpaper for sanding raw wood.
Use 180 grit or finer sandpaper and steel wool substitute (not steel wool) between coats.
Water or oil based polyurethane (use exterior grade for outdoor projects).
Compatible stains (optional). If in doubt, use stains and finish from the same manufacturer.

Shopping List

Wood Finishing Tips - Shopping List

Comments from DIY Community Members

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KenBohl

March 05, 8:27 PM [GMT -5]

I'm pre-finishing oak panel doors before installing, because I don't want to stain/varnish the hinges. In the past I've had bad experience doing one side one day and other side the next, that you see a seam/overlap of the 2 stainings on the edges. What do you think of flipping the door every half hour for a while, doing both sides the same day? If good, just lay the doors on the wood, or cover it, and with what (wax paper, drop cloth, etc.)?

DrBob_007

March 05, 3:51 PM [GMT -5]

If you want an excellent "final" sandingjob, use a piece of brown paper bag for a super slick finish following smaller and smaller grit sandpaper finish sanding. Brown paper bag finishing also works well on between-coats application of finishes like urethane.

--Bob--

RULER

February 28, 2:32 PM [GMT -5]

Some of the cabinets in our home need to be refinished, but not sure what to get to strip off the old varnish? any ideas

crackerjack61

February 02, 4:44 PM [GMT -5]

I've been refinishing furniture for over 30 years and I never sand in a circular method as shown in one of the photos between coats of Poly. Even between coats I always sand/steel wool/scotch pad with the grain of the wood.

Thom54

February 02, 12:44 PM [GMT -5]

My project is in work currently. This tips state to always sand with the grain but the corresponding picture show circular patterns in use. Is their a time when a circular pattern is acceptable or preferred? How to I handle the project after the final coat?

tectonicfloors

December 10, 12:55 AM [GMT -5]

You have posted useful tips on Wood Finishing. Thanks for sharing.
http://www.tectonicfloors.com.au/timber-flooring-enquiries.php

Bob817

June 19, 5:26 PM [GMT -5]

I would like to add, be sure you sand with the grain. even the slightest scratch against the grain will show up like a sore thumb

Stephen

January 18, 10:42 AM [GMT -5]

Don't overlook the use of disposable foam brushes to get a hair-less, bubble-less, very smooth finish. Just make sure finish is applied evenly and then quickly make a final pass.

I also dry-sand and tac inbetween coates, and for an exceptionally smooth finish I wet-sand with 300 or 400 before last coat is applied.

Valing

June 19, 4:59 PM [GMT -5]

Good Information......The reason I looked here, was to get explicit information on applying the poly or varnish. Is there another link i should look for?

overalls

April 26, 12:06 PM [GMT -5]

Very helpful information. Thanks for the great instructions and detail views.

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