Replace clogged water supply pipes, starting with the worst.
If you have low water pressure in your home and still have old galvanized steel pipes, chances are that they're corroded and clogged with rust and other minerals. Professional replacement is expensive, costing thousands of dollars.
But often you can do the job yourself, or at least solve the worst of the problem. The elbows and horizontal
pipes in the basement or lowest level are usually the main culprits. But replacing all the plumbing is really a
big job. You could save thousands and make the project more “bite size” by trying an incremental approach. That means starting with replacing an old
water meter, and then moving on to the next likely suspects.
Step 1: Replace the main valve, water meter and pipe
1 of 1
Upsize the valves and pipe
Upsize the valves and first 15-ft. of pipe.
Install two full-port 1-in. ball valves (with drains) on
each side of the new meter. Replace the first 15 ft. of
pipe leading from the meter with 1-in. pipe.
Start by opening the outdoor hose bib
closest to the water meter. If you have
low flow there, look at the water meter.
If the meter fittings are smaller than the
pipes going into and out of it, the meter
itself is reducing flow. Contact your
water utility to see if it offers a 1-in.
meter. If so, have the utility shut off the
water so you can install larger shutoff
valves and the new meter (you may
have to pay a fee to have it shut off).
Next, replace the first 15 ft. of old galvanized
pipe coming out of the meter
with 1-in. copper or PEX.
Many times, the
increased volume from
the larger pipes is
enough to compensate
for restriction in pipes
farther down the run.
New 1-in. and old 3/4-in. water meters
A Larger Water Meter
You can double the water
flow through the meter by
upsizing it to a 1-in.model.
Step 2: Replace all the fixture valves
1 of 1
Replace fixture valves
Get better flow with new stop valves. Unscrew the old stop valves and replace them with ball valves. Replace
the supply tubes at the same time.
If the water pressure is still too low, start
replacing the old stop valves to the sinks and
toilets. The stop valves and galvanized elbows
build up crud just like the rest of the pipes in
the house. Turn off the main water valve and
unscrew the stop valve. Dig out any buildup
you see inside the galvanized fitting. Then
install the new stop valve. Attach one end of a
new flexible supply tube to the valve and route
the other end into a bucket. Then open the
valve and flush out any loose crud left from the
cleaning procedure. When the water runs
clear, turn it off and attach the supply tube to
the faucet or toilet. Repeat the procedure at
each fixture that has low pressure.
Step 3: Replace all the horizontal pipes
1 of 3
Photo 1: Replace horizontal runs
Avoid trouble by reusing old elbows and tees. Leave the old 90-degree elbows and tees in place and remove the old horizontal pipes to each one. Clean out as much rust and corrosion as you can. Then install new galvanized nipples and dielectric unions before you convert to copper or PEX.
2 of 3
Photo 2: Corroded elbow at vertical run
Corrosion occurs most often at joints.
3 of 3
Photo 3: Broken threaded pipe
The threaded portion of the pipe is the weakest. This nipple broke as soon as we twisted it.
If the water flow is still wimpy, you have a big decision to make—replace all the horizontal sections yourself or call a plumber. This is actually not a huge project if your pipes are in a basement with an open or a suspended
ceiling; you can probably handle it yourself. Replace them with PEX or copper, your choice. But before you cut the old pipes, heed this warning. Never remove the 90-degree
elbows or tees attached to the bottom of the vertical pipes. The threaded portion of a pipe is always the thinnest and breaks easily when it’s old and rusty. If
you break the threads on the vertical pipe while you’re trying to remove the elbow, you'll be in real trouble. So keep those fittings intact with the vertical pipes and remove only the horizontal sections. Even then, the
threaded area on the horizontal pipes may collapse and
crack as soon you crank on them. Buy a “nipple extraction” tool, or know where you can get one in a hurry if you run into that problem.
Step 4: Replace the vertical pipes
If you've changed out all the horizontal pipes
and still have low pressure, you'll have to bite
the bullet and run new vertical lines. This is
the toughest part because you’ll often have to
cut access holes in your upper room walls and
floors for fishing the new water lines. Forget
about removing the old pipes—just abandon
them in the walls and run new lines with PEX.
Pros prefer PEX because it's easier to fish and
can bend around corners. That's especially
important where vertical water lines turn to
run horizontally along floor joists.
Drill new oversize holes (to accommodate
PEX expansion and contraction) and bundle
the hot and cold PEX lines together with tape
so you can make a single pull.
Separate them at the top and
make your crimp connections.
