Using Masking Tape When Painting

October 25, 5:40 AM [GMT -5]

Glad to know that through trial and error I have already learned these tips. I concur with the editor on the Scotch BLUE tape as well. I have tried cheaper tapes and they just don't work. Another tape that LOOKS like Blue, but isn't, taped the wall well enough but came off in split sections rather than one long piece, like Blue does.

Another tip I have learned to paint baseboards is to tape on top of the carpet (knowing that it might pull some of the fibers). I use a blunt scraper (or my nails, in my case), to press the tape as far down between the carpet and the molding as possible. Then I place my drop cloths (old sheets/blankets, in my case) at the edge of the tape, but away from the molding. I have taped the drop cloths to the other end, but it isn't really necessary if you are somewhat careful in your prep. By taping the carpet down and the joint where the baseboard meets the wall, painting baseboard molding becomes EASY and fast.

The expense of tape IS worth it when it comes to painting any trim.

October 24, 7:24 PM [GMT -5]

Ok the real secret is there is no "magic" tape for masking perfect lines. Without the trial and error of constantly doing it -like in the case of professional painters, chances are you will end up with mixed results. Besides from what I've seen and experienced while working with a pro, they mostly cut in because they consider it quicker than masking. But in those circumstances that warrant an absolute straight line (walls to kitchen cabinets etc), the number one trick I found that works every time is: Painter's Caulk. The trick is buy just a general purpose tape from Scotch and roll out the tape like the article suggests. Except DO IT LIGHTLY! At least with this method the difference is that instead of tightly sealing the tape down and risking a paint "pulloff", lightly seal it down and run a VERY light line of caulking down the run of tape. Do only one strip or section at a time because the caulk should not be allowed to dry before pulling off the tape. I should add that you can use your finger or a damp sponge that you constantly rinse off (painter's caulk is water soluable so it cleans easily with water) to seal the line down between the tape and the surface you are trying to paint.
Also putting too much caulk aloing the line will result in you getting paint and caulk mixing together. Just a thin line will do. Experiment with a small area and a sponge- you will get the hang of it. Also when you apply the paint, make sure it's enough to coat the caulk but not drip. You can lightly brush over the caulking and even onto the tape as long as the brush isn't heavily loaded. Now immiedietly after painting the section, remove the tape at the recommended 45 degree angle. This should leave you with a clean perfectly straight line and no fear of pulling off much if any of the paint.

Also, I recommend letting paint cure on trim before painting. I think the time to cure for latex based paint is around 25 days and more for oil based as it takes longer for the solvent to evaporate out. Either way if you at least give it a day you should be ok with my method above. The more you do it the more confidence you will get and you will actually be excited to tackle a room :) yes the caulking can get messy but if you use it sparingly and keep a bowl of water handy to clean off the sponge, you should be fine. :)

Hope that helps everyone! -Rob

January 03, 11:36 PM [GMT -5]

I've painted many times but NEVER get a clean line whether I've used a guard, masked or not. I decided to try the new Frog Tape that is supposed to be great. It didn't work either. I spend so much time trying to fix these messy borders.

What is the secret for a professional paint job?

Thanks for your help

Suzann

April 27, 6:31 PM [GMT -5]

This should cut down on my post-project clean up.

Thanks!