How to Build a Shed: 2011 Garden Shed

April 06, 8:18 PM [GMT -5]

My Grand Father and his friend have been building this shed from the magazine. I help paint some of the siding before going back to boarding school. hopefully it will be painted when I come home for the summer.

January 04, 8:36 PM [GMT -5]

MrPelicanpants - thanks for your advice. Building the doors now. Sorry for late response.

Qberg - my shed is 18x26. I've stayed true to the plans as much as possible. Don't think we can post pics here. Can send via email if u like.

Thanks.

Vince

December 29, 3:33 PM [GMT -5]

Can anyone advise, how do you install suffice on the gable section over main roof? Thanks

December 29, 3:33 PM [GMT -5]

Can anyone advise, how do you install suffice on the gable section over main roof? Thanks

November 09, 2:53 AM [GMT -5]

Does anybody have any pictures of the inside? I'm specially interested on how the ceiling looks from the inside. Is there room for possible storage in the rafters? Thanks in advance.

November 08, 9:52 AM [GMT -5]

@vince: Could the 5/4x4 trim be used as the bottom sills for the side windows and the dormer windows? Figures J & K show those sills as 1"x3-1/2". You're right on the 5/4x8 trim being the 1"x7-1/4" trim for the edges of the rafters on the gable ends. I don't know how the PVC trim is measured because I substituted cedar trim, but I didn't need to rip either one. The 5/4x8 comes 1x7-1/2 and the 5/4x4 comes 1x3-1/2.

November 07, 10:10 AM [GMT -5]

Another finding: the door track mounting board is specified as a 1-1/2" x 2" (a 2x4 ripped to 2"). The B-B Cross-section on Figure K shows a piece of 1x4 trim butting up to the bottom of the track mount, with the aluminum door track mounted next to that. So, of the 2" that you ripped the track mounting board, about 7/8" will be taken up by the 1x4 trim, leaving about 1 1/8" for the width of the aluminum track if the 1x4 track cover is to be mounted flush. The aluminum track I received was 2" wide itself, so it ends up wider than the 2" ripped track mounting board (by the width of the 1x4 trim board behind it). Save yourself a wasted 16' 2x4 and just use it full width--don't rip it. You'll have room to mount the 1x4 track cover. You'll need longer 5/16 lag screws to mount that track mount board, however--I used 5".

November 04, 10:43 PM [GMT -5]

Anyone know where we're supposed to use the 5/4X4X18' trim? It's not clear. Maybe ripped down to the 1"X7 1/4 trim for the barge rafters? Why the different lengths? Thanks

November 04, 10:39 PM [GMT -5]

MrPelicanpants's Dormer Rafter question, what you've described is what I plan on doing. You're correct, they do not carry much if any weight. I'm working hard to show minimal metal on the inside. Trying to figure a way not to see the nails through the sheathing on these two rafters.

To everyone contemplating this project...My slab was poured with a 3" difference from one end to the other. (One side 3"inches longer than the other). My shed is 17'X22" Will be able to hide most all of it, but the rafters on the back side all required individual measurements/ seat cuts.. What a PAIN! Note- spend the $$ and hire a professional concrete guy, not a friend of a friend... Good luck!

November 04, 10:30 PM [GMT -5]

@MrPelicanpants's Thanks for the advice. Finally found the correct "Allied Windows". Took almost two months for delivery after they were ordered. And yes, $135 shipping to San Diego. They arrived intact. Framing 98% complete. Ready to sheath the roof and nature strikes with rain for the first time in 2 months. Had a good run. Used 2X8 Ridge board and 2X6 rafters. 24' 2X6 subfascia was a pain to install by my self. Had to raise the height of the dormer windows structure to account for the added height of the larger rafters. Can we add pics? I've learned a lot so far. Good project for a semi handy guy with a hammer who like the smell of fresh cut wood, but I've had the help of a good friend who was a framer for many years and the "Ultimate Guide to House Framing". Between him and the book I'm getting it done. The plans give you about 75% of the story. I would have had to "undo/re-due" many facets of the project without their help. Having FUN! Vince

November 04, 4:25 PM [GMT -5]

I live in Matthews, NC. If anyone wants to come build this shed for me, It would be greatly appreciated. Just let me know what your cost would be. Thanks

November 01, 11:09 AM [GMT -5]

Does anyone out there know the paint color names and brand used in this project?

October 23, 10:10 AM [GMT -5]

AdamB...Fig. M has everything in it you'll need to build the finished doors. Study it carefully though. At first glance, it was not obvious to me exactly how the 1x4 frame, panel and outer 1x6 frame went together.

Word of caution: I built the door given the dimensions from Fig. M. Depending on your ground clearance (distance from the slab at the door's opening to the ground) and the style of track you're using for the doors to hang from you may have to cut some of the door off!! I did. So, measure the height of "opening" and account for the ground clearance on your project before you starting cutting panels and trim for your doors!

September 29, 2:53 PM [GMT -5]

Okay, so maybe I'm missing something, but the two pdf files included here show very minimal about the construction of the door. I don't understand how "Figure M" gets you to the final product, as shown in the photo of the shed. Any tips?

September 26, 9:04 PM [GMT -5]

We are currently finishing up this shed in the Fayetteville, NC. area. We were very surprised to find that the plans were very accurate and only required a few minor adjustment on our part--such as a beefier 2x8" ridge beam, 5/8" roof ply w/ H clips (due to the 24" centers), and some nailers at the ridge to carry the top end of the dormer fly rafters. We choose to install insulated vinyl windows just in case it was ever to be converted into some quaint little guest house. If someone in the area is interested in having this shed constructed but thinks it may be too big a project for them, we would be glad to build it for you.

September 21, 10:04 AM [GMT -5]

@vince: I looked into using the Allied windows (http://alliedaluminumwindows.com/), but they're from Minneapolis and I'm in Southeastern Wisconsin, so there was a substantial shipping charge. Since they were a custom size anyway, it was cheaper to just get some custom Larsen windows (http://www.larsondoors.com/dealers/) ordered through a local building supply company.

September 12, 8:15 PM [GMT -5]

Building a 22X16 version of this shed... Go big or go home! I'm having trouble finding the same windows they used... Which " Allied" company have you used?

September 08, 11:01 AM [GMT -5]

Re: my August 26th post: I cut all the rafters to the same length and they fit perfectly, so the Figure L dimensions for those overhang rafters aren't quite right.
Progress report: rafters are up, cross ties installed, and main roof sheathing is on.
Question: the overhang rafters for the dormer (the ones with the 18.5-degree angle) aren't going to hit any rafter under the main roof sheathing. Are they just supposed to be fastened to the main roof sheathing with no other support on the roof peak end? Obviously, the other side nails (or screws) into the dormer subfascia, but the peak side doesn't hit a rafter. These members wouldn't be holding much up, so maybe it's okay but I thought I'd ask the experts.

September 07, 9:09 PM [GMT -5]

You can snap a line at the end of the rafters and make sure they are sure they are straight, cut off excess with skill saw.

September 07, 9:06 PM [GMT -5]

I built the shed and love it.@ MR Pelican, double check your walls and make sure they are plumb because i didnt have any problems.