Overview: Tools, time and cost
This wall-hung bookshelf is one of the easiest we've ever built. If you can
stack blocks, you can build it. And installing the cable doesn't require
any more skill than drilling a hole. Things will go a lot quicker if you
own a table saw, a miter saw and a pneumatic nailer, but you could easily
build this project with just basic hand tools and a circular saw. We
used a router to bevel the shelf edges, but this is optional.
If you're dead-set on finishing this project in a weekend, here's how.
Skip the Friday night movie and cut out the parts and get one coat of finish
on. Then get up early on Saturday and apply another coat or two of
finish and you'll be ready to assemble and install the shelves on Sunday.
We spent a little under $200 for the materials, including the oak boards,
cables and other hardware.
Shaft collar and cable from top
Shaft collar and cable under shelf
Suspended Shelf and Key Features
The shelves partially hang from a cable equipped with shaft collar stops. For strength, screw the standards to wall studs.
It's Stronger Than It Looks!
Your first question when you see this bookcase might be “Is it strong
enough?” And the answer is a resounding yes. It's extra strong, in fact.
The back edges of the shelves are securely supported with screws
and blocks, and the front edges are hung from aircraft-strength cable.
We even epoxied the top of the cable to the standards just to make
sure. Each shelf is held up by shaft collars that are tightened onto the
cables with setscrews. So don't worry about the strength. These
shelves could hold your dumbbell collection!
Step 1: Cut and prefinish the parts
Start by ripping the shelves to the widths given in the
Cutting List (See “Additional Information” below). We used a full-width 1x10 for the bottom
shelf and successively narrower boards as we went up.
Making all the shelves the same width would be OK, too.
While you're at it, rip two 1-in.-wide strips from the 1x2s for
the support cleats. Next, cut the boards to length. We used a
45-degree chamfer bit and router to bevel the ends and front
edges of the shelves, but you could leave them square if
you'd like. After the parts are cut and prefinished, you're
ready to assemble the shelf.
Figure A: Suspended shelf details
Suspended Shelf Parts and Details
Figures A and B show all the parts and cable placement details that you'll need for easy assembly. You can download a complete Materials List and Cutting List, and Figures A and B in “Additional Information” below.
Step 2: Assemble the shelves
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Photo 1: Drill an angled hole for the cable
Start by drilling straight down about 1/8 in. Then tilt the drill to
about a 45-degree angle and use the starter hole to keep the bit in
place as you start to drill. The angle of the hole isn't critical.
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Photo 2: Nail the shelves to the cleats
Drive a brad through the shelf into the support cleat. These brads
just hold the shelves in place when you flip the bookshelf over to
drive in the shelf screws (Photo 5) and secure the cable (Photo 6).
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Photo 3: Assemble the shelves
Add a cleat under the shelf and nail it in. Then add another shelf
and tack it to the cleat. Continue like this until you get to the bottom.
Now do the same thing on the other side.
The shelves are too big to build on a normal workbench. If
you're young and nimble, you could put them together on
the floor. Otherwise, save your back and line up a few old
doors on a pair of sawhorses.
Assembly is straightforward; follow Photos 1 – 6 and the
details shown in Figures A and B. Here are a few tips to help:
- Mark the back of the shelves 13 in. from the ends so you'll
know where to line them up with the standards (Photo 2).
- Keep the shelves and standards at a right angle to each
other as you attach the cleats. That'll ensure that the
cleats fit tight to the shelves.
- Don't drive nails where you'll be drilling holes.
- Drill mounting screw holes after you have all the cleats
installed. It's easier to do it before you mount the shelves
on the wall.
Step 3: String the cable
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Photo 4: Thread the cable
Start at the bottom shelf and run the cable through the collars
and shelves. Add two collars between each pair of shelves. At the
top, thread the cable through the angled hole.
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Photo 5: Fasten the shelves
Flip the bookshelf over and drive screws into the back of each
shelf through the holes in the standards.
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Photo 6: Anchor the cable with epoxy
Loop the cable in the recess and hold it down with a washer and
screw. Then mix five-minute epoxy and fill the recess with it.
The cable is flexible and easy to cut, so it's a breeze to
install. Just remember to put two collars on the cable,
between each pair of shelves, as you thread the cable
through the holes. Leave about 4 in. of cable sticking out the
top and an extra foot or so on the bottom. The extra cable on
the bottom lets you use our “cable pedal” method for
removing slack (Photo 8). After stringing the cable, flip the
whole works over so you can drive the shelf screws (Photo 5)
and anchor the top of the cable (Photo 6). Take a coffee break
while the epoxy sets up.
Step 4: Mount the shelves
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Photo 7: Mount the bookshelf
Locate two studs that are 32 in. apart with a stud finder. Screw the
standards to the studs, making sure the shelves are level and the
standards are plumb.
The shelf standards are spaced 32 in. on center to align with
studs. So all you have to do is locate two studs where you
want the shelves to go and mark them with masking tape.
Setting the shelves on blocks (Photo 7) is a handy way to hold
them up while you drive the first few screws. Start by driving
one of the top screws. Before you drive the top screw in
the second standard, check to make sure the shelves are
level. After the two top screws are in place, make sure the
standards are plumb before you drive the remaining screws.
We used No. 10 finish washers under the screws for a decorative
effect.
Step 5: Tighten the cable
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Photo 8: Tension the cables
Tighten the cable using a scrap of wood with a hole in it to put
tension on the cable while you tighten the setscrew on the collar
below the lowest shelf. Then snug the remaining collars to the top
and bottom of the shelves and tighten the collars.
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Photo 8A: Close-up of collars
Tighten the collars to keep the shelf rigid.
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Photo 9: Trim and cap the cable
Use a side-cutting pliers or lineman’s pliers to cut the cable. Leave
1/4 in. protruding. Cover the end of the cable with a cap nut. Use
hot-melt glue or silicone caulk to hold the cap nut in place.
At this point, the cable is slack and the collars are still
loose. Your goal is to take the slack out of the cable and then
adjust each shelf so it's level from front to back while you
tighten the collars (Photo 8). Use an Allen wrench to tighten
the setscrews. Remember, you don't need too much tension
on the cable, just enough to remove the slack. Finish up
by cutting the cable and covering the end with a cap nut
(Photo 9).
