How to Connect Old Wiring to a New Light Fixture

February 24, 2:05 PM [GMT -5]

I question the necessity of a metal box when the rest of the organically insulated wiring is not enclosed. I suppose that a short is most likely to occur where connections are made, since the wires are in close proximity, but the wiring as a whole will overheat if a short occurs, and if a properly working fusing device is not included in the circuit. A box will do nothing to protect the rest of the wiring, which is still capable of producing fires. I also don't see why people feel that knob-and-tube is much more ill-advised safety-wise than today's Romex. Benefits of Romex are superior insulation longevity (non-organic) and fire RESISTANCE. However, it is just as vulnerable to nails and screws, and if the fuse or breaker fails, it, too, will melt and start a fire. If you are going to install a metal fireproof box, then you should install fireproof BX or conduit sheathed wiring. Otherwise there is no purpose to the box, except perhaps as a convenient mounting means.

December 12, 10:09 AM [GMT -5]

I recently finished updating all the wiring in my home built in 1912. I found having an oscillating power tool, such as the Dremel Multi-Max, to be invaluable. Cutting plaster and lath with a drywall saw can be extremely difficult, and most of the time you will knock off more plaster than intended leaving a messy patch job. I used a grout blade to cut through the plaster and then a wood blade for the lath. These tools will give you a perfect cut out every time. They are especially handy when making circular cut outs for ceiling boxes. If you are going to tackle a wiring project any bigger than just putting in a couple new lights I would highly recommend picking one of these tools up.