Overview
Whether you have a factory-perfect pickup bed you're
anxious to protect or a scratched and dented bed
you're dying to hide, you have several options for
bed liners. Molded drop-in types are sized for your truck and
cost $200 to $5,000. Other options are a professionally installed
spray-on liner, which costs $500 to $600, or a do-it-yourself roll-on
bed liner for $100 - $200 (including tape and cleaners), which
is what we'll focus on here.
All liners have their obvious pros and cons. Molded liners are
good at absorbing shocks and hauling gravel or sand but can be
slippery. They can also get punctured, which can lead to bed
corrosion if water and debris become trapped underneath. On
the other hand, spray or roll/brush-on bed liners are a heavy-duty
polyurethane mixture that hardens and thoroughly coats
the inside of your truck bed. Roll/brush-on liners are skid
resistant, but on the downside, they can't be removed and aren't
as thick as drop-ins, so they're subject to denting.
The three critical steps for a solid, long-lasting coating are
preparation, preparation, preparation. No shortcuts allowed, or
you'll end up with a worthless chipping or peeling surface.
Preparation
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Photo 1: Wash
Remove the tailgate and set it on sawhorses.
Sweep or vacuum dirt and debris from the bed and
tailgate. Make sure any drain holes are clear. Scrub
both the bed and the tailgate with a strong solution of
TSP and water to remove oil, petroleum or wax-based
residue. Rinse with plenty of clear water and wipe
with a clean rag. Allow to dry thoroughly.
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Photo 2: Mask
Using painter's tape, carefully
mask off all areas that aren't
going to be covered, especially at
the back of the bed near the tailgate.
Press the tape down firmly to
form a good protective seal. Neatly
cover the drain holes with tape or foam rubber
weatherstripping to seal them.
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Photo 3: Scuff
Thoroughly scuff all painted surfaces,
including any surface rust, to ensure a good bond.
Take your time and leave no glossy areas. Sand deep
rust or corrosion to the bare metal with 150-grit sandpaper.
Blow out or wipe down the bed to remove all sanding dust. Apply a coat of primer and let dry. Don't use lacquer-based primer.
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Photo 4: Wipe
Wipe the bed area with acetone. Wear chemical-
resistant gloves and a respirator. Start at the front of
the bed using the spray bottle. Let the acetone sit for a
few seconds and wipe it off with clean shop towels, never
using the same side of the towel twice. Wipe the entire
surface of the bed where the material is to be applied. Let
dry about 10 minutes. (Never use lacquer or alcohol-based solvents.)
Application
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Photo 5: Brush
Remove the lid and thoroughly mix the material
using a paint mixer and power drill (make sure the
temperature is between 32 and 95 degrees F). The material
can be thinned up to 10 percent with xylene if it's too
thick to brush or roll. Occasionally stir the mixture while
applying. Begin with the seams and corners, dabbing
rather than stroking the material into them.
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Photo 6: Roll
Once the seams and corners are covered, use
the supplied textured roller cover and handle to gently
apply the material to the front and side panels first, then
roll the material onto the tailgate and the floor of the
trunk bed. Apply a second coat of material along the
taped edges before the first coat dries so the tape won't
tear when you remove it. Touch up any missed areas with
a small brush. When you're finished, discard the roller
cover and wrap the brush in a plastic bag to keep it from
drying out. Use xylene to remove any excess material
while it's still wet. Once the first coat has set up (usually
in six hours) or isn't tacky to the touch, apply the second.
Let the rags and application materials air dry, then
throw them into the trash. Recycle any leftover materials
or solvents as you would oil paint.
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Bed liner kit
Bed liner kits are available at auto supply stores or online.
