Utility Trailer Upgrades

Light it up

It’s a given—you never have a working flashlight when you need one. If you’ve ever loaded a trailer or hooked one to the hitch in the dark, you know it’s not fun. These magnetic LED tap lights (the Energizer Hard Case Professional 3-LED Area Light; sold at opticsplanet.com) are removable so they won’t get wrecked. Just mount the backing plate where you’ll get the best illumination for loading and hitching, then slap the light onto the plate. These babies are weatherproof, unlike most tap lights. But stow them before you take off. The magnets might not hold them on rough roads.

Carry long items safely

Ever tried to transport long or fragile items like pipe, drywall corner beads or drip edge? First you have to tie them in a bundle. Then you have to secure the bundle to the trailer. Forget that! Instead, build the same kind of rig a plumber uses. Then just slide in the long items, screw on the cap, secure a red flag and you’re good to go. Build the entire unit for about $25.

Buy a 10-ft. length of 4-in. PVC pipe, an end cap, a cleanout adapter, PVC cleaner and adhesive, and four J-hooks. Prime and glue the end cap and clean out adapter. Take advantage of the wasted space on the side of your trailer and mount the tube there. Secure the four J-hooks to the side of the trailer and snap the tube into place. Tie the rig with rope for added security.

Winch it in

Boat owners use a winch to pull their boat onto the trailer. You can install one on a utility trailer, too. It'll save your back and eliminate the need for a helper. Just wrap the strap around the heavy object and crank it up the ramp toward the front of the trailer. A winch with a 20-ft. pull strap and hook costs about $35 - $40. Bolt it to the trailer A-frame or tongue.

Save your back with ramps

Why lift heavy items when you can wheel them up? Build this ramp using an aluminum ramp kit (such as the Highland No. 0700500; sold at summitracing.com) and a 2x8. Just measure the height of the trailer deck and cut the 2x8 to the recommended length. Mount the aluminum top and bottom pieces to each board. Then space the ramps to fit the equipment you haul most often. Install the locking pins, lock the ramps in place and load ’er up.

The landscaper's trick

Landscapers and lawn care guys always haul around rakes, shovels, brooms and other implements by mounting vertical tubes on the front of their trailers. Here’s our version. Cut 36-in. lengths of 1-1/2-in. PVC pipe and glue on an end cap. Then drill a hole in each end cap to provide drainage. Attach the tubes using PVC electrical conduit straps and nuts. If you plan to use the tubes in winter, secure them with metal straps—PVC gets brittle in cold weather and can shatter. For added security, hook a bungee strap to each implement.

Dry storage for small stuff

Here's a great way to store your ratchet straps and bungee cords with the trailer, where they belong. Build vertical storage bins from 6-in. PVC pipe. Glue a cap on the bottom and drill a hole in it to overcome the suction when you pull off the lid. Then mount a handle on the top cap and attach a chain. Perfect dry storage for whatever will fit inside.

Stow the spare

Flat tires are the No. 1 cause of trailer breakdowns. If you’re not carrying a spare tire when you get a flat, you’re in a heap of trouble. But where do you keep it? In the trailer bed where it’s in the way? This spare tire carrier (Fulton Performance Heavy Duty Spare Tire Carrier; sold at boatersplus.com) doesn’t require assembly and can be mounted easily to the trailer rails. To lock the tire in place, simply run a bicycle locking cable down the tube and snap it shut.

A cargo net and D-rings are great for “lighty, loosey” items

At highway speeds, light items can fly right out of your trailer. Even if they’re tied down, they can break loose and take off. So you need one final mode of protection. We recommend a cargo net. Find one in the automotive section of the home center or at any auto parts store. Install D-rings every 18 in. along the top rails. You may be tempted to screw them into place. Don’t. As the wood rails age, the screws can pull out. Instead, secure the D-rings with nuts and bolts. When you’re finished loading, just throw the net over the trailer and clip the snaps to the rings.

Security

Trailer thieves get quite a laugh out of coupler “latch locks.” They can cut them in an instant with even the smallest bolt cutter. Then they’re on their way with your trailer. If you want real protection, use a coupler lock that presents thieves with a real challenge. (Shown here is the Trimax UMAX100 Universal Coupler lock; sold at jegs.com.) Just insert the ball into the coupler and slide on the U-bracket. Unless the thief has the time to unbolt the entire coupler and install a new one, you’ll be well protected.

More security

If you have a really expensive trailer, it pays to get an extra layer of protection by using a “boot”-style lock in addition to the coupler lock. There are many styles to choose from, but we liked this particular model (the Trimax TCL75 Wheel Chock Lock; sold at newegg.com) because it doubles as a wheel chock to prevent the trailer from rolling. Just slide it onto the wheel and press in the lock cylinder.